A Return to a The Pennine Journey – July 2026

I walked the complete route of A Pennine Journey in 2012, during the wettist summer on record at that time. My return visit in 2026 started off in high winds and finished during the third official heat wave of the year. Conditions on the ground were very different and more pleasant. With the route now marked on the OS maps, it must surely be The Pennine Journey.

This time, I walked only as far as the Roman wall, Wainwright’s original objective. I staged this over ten walking days and I varied my stopping points to fit in with available accommodation. Sadly, some of the places I stayed at fourteen years ago are no longer open. In some places, I elected to try somewhere new and chose well.

My itinerary was therefore: Settle, Horton, Buckden, Askrigg, Keld, Bowes (and a taxi to/from Barnard Castle), Middleton, St John’s Chapel (for Westgate), Edmundbyers (for Blanchland), Hexham and YHA The Sill (Once Brewed). Another time, I would probably walk directly from Barnard Castle to Middleton along the Teesdale Way instead of returning to the Bowes Loop. Diverting to St John’s Chapel made little difference and the mile and a half link back to Westgate next day was along the Weardale Way and largely pleasant. The diversion to Edmundbyers was easy despite adding another two miles to the day. However, an extra five miles is needed to then reach Blanchland next morning. Despite this addition being easy walking/navigation, it makes a long day to Hexham.

I booked my overnight stays in January, mindful that in some places accommodation and eateries are sparse. I carried my own kit but to add camping equipment would have been too much. I suggest that journeyers don’t rely on passing local shops and cafes for food and drink during the day, but encourage them to buy their extras from these places when seen to help business survival. There are several ‘honesty tuck shops’ along the route which are very welcome. At no time did I go hungry, and put on about half a stone.

Since the book was written there have been a number of changes, mainly to gates, stiles, walls, fences, bridges and sight lines. There are a few places where the route to take needs some thought and a little experimentation. The PJ waymarkers have improved matters and give reassurance. There are naturally parts of the route which are more enjoyable than others. While this may sometimes be down to personal preference, I don’t think anyone would nominate Ettersgill Common (between Teesdale and Weardale) as the best part of the Pennine Journey. But, that was only two miles out of my total of around one hundred and thirty five.

I met few other walkers except when the PJ coincides with the Pennine Way and Hadrian’s Wall path. Keld was generally busy because the Coast to Coast path passes through there too. Nevertheless, I never had a feeling of isolation or trepidation. I enjoyed the sound of the birds, the burns and the breeze during the day, and the company and conversation in the evenings. I’m pleased that I revisited the PJ.