Journeyer David Hinshelwood

Journeyer David Hinshelwood

Report by: David Hinshelwood
Walk Date: 13th June to 29th June 2023

The Pennine Journey is an interesting and varied trail – complete with all that you would expect of the Pennines – moorland, fields, dales, riverside stretches and plenty of hill and fell terrain together with some sections that show evidence of their industrial heritage.  Overall some terrific landscapes and an abundance of the natural world (especially birdlife – particularly on areas that are subject to management for grouse shooting – grouse, curlew, lapwing, golden plover, oyster catchers, redshank, short eared owls and grey partridge were all seen).

There are some sections which have terrific obvious scenery – such as:

  • the Teesdale stretch from Middleton to Langdon Beck – great riverside walking and spectacular waterfalls
  • the views from Cross Fell across the Eden valley towards the Lake district
  • Swaledale and the waterfalls at Keld as you climb out of the valley
  • the dramatic Howgill fells on the sections south of Kirkby Stephen
  • the extensive views from the summits of Whernside and Ingleborough
  • the switchback sections of the Yorkshire Dales – Littondale to Langstrothdale to Wensleydale,

But, I would not necessarily identify any particular sections as being “better” than others – the variety all adds to enjoyment of the trail – including some of the villages and towns. Some may say that there are “duller” sections – but in a walk of this length there has to be sections that link the “better” sections.  However the anticipation is always there – just what is around the bend or over that hill?

I also went slightly “off-piste” on a couple of occasions – including walk extensions to the summit of Cross Fell, a visit to High Cup Nick and including the ascent of Pen y Ghent. To my mind, all very worthwhile including into my Pennine Journey.

I did not follow the section distances from the guide book, but opted for some slightly longer sections some days – to suit accommodation availability.  I used a mix of hostels (Alston is a highlight – clean, quiet, super service in a town with all facilities), B&Bs (Barrowgarth at Appleby, Dave & Sheila Anderson at Muker are 2 stand out B&B establishments) and pubs (The Buck Inn, Buckden and The Fox & Hounds at Cotherstone (will transport to and from the PJ pathway) are 2 excellent pubs to stay at.  I also used a baggage transfer company (Brigantes – brilliant) so that I only carried a day sack each day – highly recommended, as I walk to enjoy the travel, not just to achieve a goal.

Some parts have more challenging navigation than trails such as the Pennine Way as they are not as well way marked.  Reading the guidebook each evening provided useful information, but the trusty OS map and compass (or GPS if you are more “up to date”) are necessary in some parts – particular the Cumbrian sections after Cross Fell through to Dufton.  As the PJ is a path less well travelled, the path is not always so obvious on the ground.  There is also the slight issue that the guidebook is starting to go out of date the day it is published – changes occur to the infrastructure – hedges, gateways new buildings etc, but that is common to all guides.

Highlights of my walk included:-

  • many continuous birdlife encounters with a great amount of birdsong, discussions with a gamekeeper on the ascent to Cross Fell (from Garrigill direction),
  • Milburn village layout,
  • the classic setting for a cricket pitch at Sedburgh School,
  • the kind ladies at the laundrette in Settle,
  • the Teesdale stretch from Middleton to Langdon Beck – great riverside walking and spectacular waterfalls
  • the views from Cross Fell across the Eden valley towards the Lake district
  • Swaledale and the waterfalls at Keld as you climb out of the valley
  • the dramatic Howgill fells on the sections south of Kirkby Stephen
  • the extensive views from the summits of each of the Yorkshire 3 peaks
  • the switchback sections of the Yorkshire Dales – Littondale to Langstrothdale to Wensleydale, to Swaledale
  • Langstrothdale including the church at Hubberholme and the Buck Inn,
  • the setting of Blanchland,
  • the Abbey at Hexham and
  • the historic Hadrians Wall

My walk along the Pennine Journey was part of a longer walk – which I undertook in order to raise sponsorship towards the charity – My Name’5 Doddie’s Foundation. 

I started my walk at Kirk Yetholm, which is the starting point for the Pennine Way walk, travelling from north to south. On the 4th day of my walk, I joined the Pennine Journey at Rapishaw Gap on Hadrians Wall., I then travelled along the PJ as described in the guide book – southwards along the western side of the Pennines to Settle, then northwards, completing the circuit at Rapishaw Gap some 15 walking days later.

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