Journeyer Nick Caunt
Report by: Nick Caunt
Walk Date: September 2019 to October 2023 in 5 phases, one phase each year
I had previously completed A Coast to Coast, The Pennine Way and Wainwright’s Way (Blackburn to Haystacks/Buttermere by Nick Burton), all as continuous through hikes. Also, the Wainwright Fells and the Outlying Fells. I had read David Pitt’s PJ Book while I was planning to walk the Pennine Way in 2013 and read Wainwright’s PJ book shortly after. So, I had been keen to tackle A Pennine Journey for quite a few years! However, I kept having things get in the way and this was unfortunately a trend that very much continued once I finally started in 2019.
I had to deal with protests, the pandemic, an extreme heatwave and a myeloma cancer diagnosis with the associated treatment and health impact. So, I ended up completing in five phases, the last two phases had to be 7-mile sections which is the safe limit of my current strength. This being facilitated by my wife doing a ferrying and support service that I am most grateful for. I also had to do long periods of training to rebuild my stamina. In total I did 32* days on the route and 3 extra days to add on some extra nearby locations. *Some of the days were very short due to transport challenges to be able to start each phase. I raised £1400 for cancer charities in Lancashire. My health is currently under control, the walk and the training walks have helped considerably with this, both physically and mentally.
I really enjoyed the Journey and some measure of this was in the route and logistics planning. The scenery, nature, terrain, and industrial remains come in a nicely balanced mix that means there are no dull sections. I found the navigation to be fairly challenging, but that is something that I enjoy and am used to, having completed several other less well-known long-distance trails on mostly day walks.
I stayed at Inns, B&Bs and hostels, carrying my (very little) stuff myself as far as Brough Castle where I aborted Phase 3 due to heat exhaustion. There are highlights on nearly every section. The following, including some diversions, being perhaps less well known.
Lovely honesty cafes at Halton Gill and Stalling Busk.
Great Shunner Fell on a nice day after being extremely foul on my Pennine Way.
Black grouse on Goldsborough Hill.
The Kirk Inn at Romaldkirk. A crazy pub visited by AW on his Journey. (done on an extra day)
Diversion to Cauldron Snout which I missed on the PW due to foul weather.
The Durham moors and their wonderful heather. Rookhope hostel, Bolt’s Law industrial remains, Blanchland and Dukesfield smelting works. I think this part of the Journey was my favourite area.
Hexham Abbey and the former cinema (now a Wetherspoons) visited by AW.
The summit of Cross Fell on a clear day. It had been extremely foul on my Pennine Way.
Milburn village green and Dufton Gill.
Brough Castle.
Kirkby Stephen church, Lady Anne Clifford statue and the Eden Valley castles.
Finding a fallen stone circle and alignment on Turner Hill and it’s view down Grisdale.
The views of the Howgills and Cautley Spout plus ham and eggs at a family meal at the Cross Keys.
The fish and chip shop in Sedbergh and the Sun Inn in Dent.
Taking a selfie much more easily than AW at Thornton Force.
Conquering the weather and extreme fatigue summiting Ingleborough and realising I was going to complete the Journey.
Cream tea at Feizor café.
Walking up to Settle Railway Station on October 5th, the 85th anniversary of Wainwright’s completion.